Otak Otak at Little Penang - A Parcel of Pleasure



Little Penang is a Wellington institution, yet I have never been. Until now. Every time I walk past it is packed to the gills. This time I arrive right on opening time (11am) and it is a little less crowded. I have been assured by many that it is some of the best Malaysian food in town. The decor is simple, clean and modern, and the drinks fridge contains a wide selection of soft drinks, including the trendy Six Barrel Soda range (Little Penang is unlicensed).

Oak Otak is a dish of fish steamed or grilled in banana leaf, which locks in the flavours and prevents drying out. It is common across Southeast Asia, though traditionally it is made from ground fish, while Little Penang's utilises a whole fillet instead. Oddly enough, "Otak" means "brains" in Malay, as the dish is soft and pale and squishy, although traditionally in Malaysia it is also flavoured with tumeric and curry powder. Insert Malaysian zombie joke here.

Little Penang's Otak is served with a Kerabu salad, julienned cucumber and mango with seasoning and myriad chilli slices. I admire the chef's fine knife skills - julienning takes years of practice to do well. The salad is crunchy and refreshing and hot as hell. The fish is cooked to perfection and flakes beneath my fork. According to my tutor at culinary school, the difference between good fish and overcooked rubber is about 10 seconds, this is just right. It is lightly marinated, a lovely golden hue courtesy of tumeric. According to the server it is hoki (blue grenadier), a highly underrated fish. Dr. Google says it is one of the types of fish used in McDonald's Fillet-of-Fish. This is so much nicer: moist and super fresh. My tongue is still a-tingling, and I have a very high chilli tolerance (to me, Thai Hot is kinda mild). Well, they did ask me how hot I wanted it and I said "very!"

Otak Otak is a unique and novel dish, an Asian version of Fish en Papillote. It is fun and interactive, like unwrapping a delicious present. At $14.90 for a big, meaty fillet it is excellent value and probably quite healthy too. I will definitely eat this dish again and again.

Little Penang totally lives up to the hype.

Food: 9/10
Service: 10/10
Ambiance: 8/10
Cost: $14.90

40 Dixon Street, Te Aro

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